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Superglide Ken View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Superglide Ken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14/November/2006 at 9:31pm
Originally posted by MR. STEAMER MR. STEAMER wrote:

if I drill a small whole on either side ...there is no way I'm going to loose any lift...and the cfm's will increase...
 

I didn't say put a hole the size of the grand canyon



High CFM wands #2- the Saturation Barrier
Posted By Ken Harris on 7/4/2002 at 12:15 AM
Today I would like to discuss why most carpets take over 6 hours to dry after HWE. Most water that is injected into a carpet comes back(85-95%)if you have a strong TM vacuum system.That leaves 5-15% still there,and that adds up to 2.5 to 7.5 gallons of water left in a typical 700 sq ft job.The less you leave in the carpet the faster the dry time.This post will tell you how to cut that residual moisture in half!

The reason that most cleaners leave about 5 gallons of water in the carpet are many, but the main reason is the poor extraction qualities of their wand.Most wands are designed to be cheap to build for the manufacturer and built to look good to the cleaner , but are not designed for the maximum cleaning performance.The width of the wand slot is usually set at 3/8" so the air entering will have enough velocity to catch the water /soil mix up and transport it out of the carpet.

The problem is the WCI on those wands only allow about 100 cfm .Many wands were developed in the days before TMs were around much.In those days ,2 lamb vacs in series would only produce 100 cfm or less ,so wand design was not a big concern.The manufacturers of TMs would just strengthen the wand to take the higher HG pressure ,but leave the design alone.The blowers used in the industry got more powerful until there was a huge gap in what the blower would produce and what could go through the WCI .Today the average machine puts out over 300 cfm, but only a 1/3 of that vacuum is useable, with the balance going out the releif valve!

Now that you know why todays machines do not dry carpet much better than the ones I used 20 years ago, what can you do about it? The amount of airflow that your wand can draw through the carpet fibers is the main stumbling block.100 cfm is not enough to recover the most water because that is only 1.66 cfs.Now if you were able to move 3.32 cfs(200CFM) then the wand would extract much more water.

After a carpet is wanded it starts the evaporation process. The carpet cools down 10 to 20 degrees below the room temp due to evaporative cooling.The cooler the air gets just above this carpet the slower it evaporates and the more humid it becomes.This slows the carpet drying down dramatically.

Now, if you could reduce the water left in the carpet below 2.5 gal per 700 sq ft,an interesting thing happens: the saturation barrier that forms over the damp carpet is much thinner and does not slow the drying process hardly at all.The water left in the carpet is only 1/2 what it was at the 5 gallon level but the carpet dries 3X quicker because the barrier does not contain enough water vapour to go to 90%RH anymore like it does with the higher water content.

Moving the CFM flow at the WCI up to 200 cfm or more is the best way to reduce the carpets water content AND cut the soil residue in half.Soil is suspended in the water,so if you leave only half the water, you leave only half the soil from that source too. Aeration of the wands rear lip is the easiest way to increase the air flow going into the wand. We like the PMF wand best to do this modification on because the plastic guide is thicker and easier to work on than cutting stell on most wands.This is a modification you can do yourself if you have a good understanding of air flow porting.If not , you can have this done for under $100 by someone who knows how.

Now that your wand breaths better and your dry times are under 2 hours, you are ready to capitalize on this by making it clean better too, but that is another story for later.

Good luck with the performance to be gained here first.


Ken Harris


    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Superglide Ken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15/November/2006 at 12:14am
Here is that article I promised Steamer about how to get more cfm out of his wand without a glide. That is only a small part of the bigger picture however, but this article tells how to do it.

30 minute Dry Times- with a wand!
Posted By Ken Harris on 5/20/2002 at 4:36 PM
The time has come for me to reveal to you how you can dry most of your customer's residential carpet in about 30 minutes using your existing equipment with a small amount of modification. I'm talking about using TM equipment here to do this and most of you will be able to use what you already have to accomplish this. In some cases you may need to upgrade what you are using to get down to these times. Or you could decide to use just what you have and still get your dry times down to an hour. What I'm about to say to get to this point is the result of 20+ years of experimenting with what works best to acheive this end.If you disagree with parts of it , fine.It has all been proven to do the job though, so use what parts of it that you can.


Components of the Drying System:

1) Equipment requirements
2) Vacuum Hoses
3) Water Temperature and pressure
4) Wand Technique
5) Wand requirements
6) Wand modication
7) The use of dryers


1) Equipment requirements

For most of you you will want to have a gas or diesal powered TM with a large enough blower to move about 300 cfm of air at a lift of 15"HG or higher. You will want it equipped with a positive displacement blower to do this. A 3.6 with a 288 cfm flow should be the minimum to consider, but a larger blower like the 4MP with it's 320 cfm and 16"HG lift would be better. It should be capable of hitting about 220 degrees ATM so you end up with about 200 degrees ATW with 100 ft of solution hose attached.Direct drive or slide-in doesn't matter.

2) Vacuum hose requirements

The hose should be kept at 110 ft or less for best performance and shortest dry times.If you can use it this way 90% of the time, you are doing very good. Two fifty foot sections of 2" hose with a 10 ft whip of 1.5" works best. Some would say to use 2" all the way ,but this is neither necessary or desirable. As long as it is kept short 1.5" hose is able to handle 280 cfm of airflow, and since even with a modified wand you will not flow more than 200 cfms, it does the job. All 2" hose just makes your job harder and wears you out sooner for no good reason.

Water Temps and Pressure

The reason to use temperatures of 200 degrees are two fold. First hotter water drys faster than colder water and will evaporate faster leaving less to dry from the carpet. More importantly though you need to use less water to clean the carpet because it speeds up the cleaning action of the chemicals used.The less water used the less to extract and evaporate. In regards to pressure , 300 psi at the wand is all you need. This will mean setting your pump at 450 ATM to get it.Using more than this breaks the surface tention of the carpet back faster and saturates it. This leads to longer drying.

Wand Technique

The best one to use to stop the carpet backing from becoming overly wet is backward only when the wand is on. Some say this does not clean as well. I say to increase your over-lapping on more heavily soiled carpet and decrease on lightly soiled. You will find you water lasts longer and your waste tank takes longer to fill too. Dry stroke the carpet once or twice after that depending on soiling present initially.

Wand Requirements

Most of you should be using a 1.5" tubed wand for the most comfort.Best would be a 1.75 tubed wand that will accept either size vac hose.The wand should have 3 jets on it, preferably 3 .02's. the reason for this is to retain as much heat to the carpet as possible. The greatest heat a cleaning system loses is here.The loss is around 15 degrees /inch of travel getting to the carpet.A 3 jet may lose 30 degrees travelling 2" down ,but a single jet can lose as much as 75 degrees going the 5 or more inches it must travel.

Wand Modication

If you are ever to get your drying times down to 30 minutes, you must find a way for your wand to move more air(CFMs) when it is down on the carpet working.Most wands will not flow more than 100 cfms thru the Wand/Carpet Interface(WCI) even when the TM powering it has 320 cfm and 15"HG and is operating only 100 ft of hose. The reason is that the effective area exposed to the atmosphere there is only the equivealent of a 5/8" hole. To improve this number you have to open up more area to airflow. The way you can do this easily is to take your 12" wand and turn it over . On the inner lip(the one closer to the wand jets)mark off 22 lines with a fine tipped marker pen, one every 1/2"until they go from one side to the other.Get yourself a fine hacksaw blade and say down to a depth of 1/8".This will get you about 50 more cfms entering your wand with a drop in your drying times. For those systems that you know for sure have over 300 cfms of airflow,you could increase the number of slots up to 44 to get about 200 cfm or use a fine file to double the width of your existing slots. File the edges of your air slots smooth before using it so as to not snag any carpet yarns.

The use of dryers

These should still be used with this system to get the fastest drying times. Use them in the center of the room with them pointed at the ceiling to force the airflow all around the floor to prevent a boundry layer of saturated air from forming and slowing down your drying.In some dryer climates you will find you don't need them if you are using the other parts of this drying system properly.Opening 2 windows or running the HVAC may be enough.


Ken Harris
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Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Superglide Ken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15/November/2006 at 4:23pm
Okay, ready for another teckie question. Anyone got one?
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                               Smile


Edited by nightrider - 13/November/2007 at 4:38pm
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.
    

Edited by Superglide Ken - 15/November/2006 at 6:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Superglide Ken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15/November/2006 at 6:47pm
Originally posted by nightrider nightrider wrote:

I HAVE A 10,000 SQ.FT GREASY RESTAURANT CARPET TO CLEAN, THE JOB PAYS 8 CENTS SQ.FT  I HAVE THE CHEMICAL TO DO THE JOB WITH A 30 SECOND DWELL TIME, THERE ARE NO TABLES OR CHAIRS TO MOVE ( COMPLETE EMPTY SPACE ) USING ONE TRUCKMOUNT AND 2 WANDS (  HOW FAST CAN YOU DO THE JOB. )
 
                                         
NIGHTRIDER



First off, I personally would not do a job like that for anything less than .20/sq ft. I have done simular cleaning jobs as this one in 5 hours at an average of 2000 sq ft per hour useing 2 RX20 units. I would use an enzyme product to spray on the carpet to start the digestion of the food and grease. I would not use wands for this job. That would take longer and not do as even or quality clean as the RX20 can do.Finish up with a 175 rpm floor machine with cotton pads and light acid rinse to give an even finish.
    
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Edited by nightrider - 13/November/2007 at 4:39pm
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ALRIGHT THEN.................I WAS JUST LOOKING FOR SOME CHEAP LABOUR TO CLEAN MY DINING ROOM CARPET.................THANKS ANYWAY                         NIGHTRIDER

My cheap days are done Jack. 10 years ago I would have done that job at .08 and been happy with that, but those where the days when I was cleaning 700 sq ft in empty houses for $49.(only .07/sq ft) I do not do anything that does not pay at least .20/sq ft anymore.

Besides, $400/hr for the job beats $160/hr everytime,eh?
    
    
    
    

Edited by Superglide Ken - 15/November/2006 at 7:03pm
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Edited by nightrider - 13/November/2007 at 4:39pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hammy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15/November/2006 at 7:48pm
With three guys, I would think four to five hours, give or take?? How long does it take you?
Could somebody just clean my carpets!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Superglide Ken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15/November/2006 at 8:12pm
Jack would need to get his TM working again to answer that question Hammy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hammy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15/November/2006 at 8:17pm
I have two like that, what's wrong with JacksBig smile
Could somebody just clean my carpets!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Superglide Ken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15/November/2006 at 8:26pm
Take your pick of all kind of theories:

Accident?
Too Heavy for the Dodge suspension?
Broke from parking in Quebec and cleaning in Vermont?
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Broke from parking inQuebec and cleaning in vermont.
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